April 30, 2008

The tasty side of growing up

Today, two months and one day shy of 25, I finally became an adult. Or so I thought about eight hours ago.


The day started well: my shiny, brand-new American passport came in the mail. I know that doesn't sound like a big deal, but oh boy, it is a symbol of so much growing up. For one, I am a one-week-old American. I was naturalized last Tuesday and I'm sure something has changed inside of me since I was sworn in eight days ago. As if that weren't enough, I got that passport, and my citizen-status, all on my very own, not piggy-backing on my parents as I would have if I were a mere teenager. Quite grown-up of me, wouldn't you say?

Next, I made a very difficult grown-up decision: UC Berkeley, here I come! I see this less as a fulfillment of my childhood dream of being a California girl - complete with mussed up surfer hair, neon flip flops and a flippy West Coast accent to match - and more of a super responsible first step into the rest of my life. Super responsible. I swear.

And finally, there was the bread. Only adults make bread, right? You never see little boys and girls standing on chairs over a ball of dough. Mixing pancake batter? Sure. But kneading bread? I think my point is clear.

I've always considered bread one of my callings - eating bread, that is. I like sweet, sour, chewy, grainy. I like it warm and crusty, cool and stale at the point just before fuzzy little creatures start to call it home. I like it with melty Plugrá, goopy Nutella, and pretty much any kind of cheese. Hell, I like it plain, and I'll fight anyone willing to mess with me in order to get the nubby end of a French baguette.

But baking bread was aways another matter completely. Honestly, I thought it was something only done by "big people:" People that were taller than me and had darker circles under their eyes than me. People who had come to the conclusion that they're too old for birthday parties (gifts and cake included). People who knew the difference between "adobo" and "saffron." (I still don't think I should have been blamed for seasoning my grilled cheese sandwich with the the contents of a reappropriated, mislabeled spice bottle.) The big people would make the bread and I, very happily, would pick every last crumb off my plate with my fingertips.

Last night when, just home from a too long day at work (if that's not a grown-up thought, I don't know what is!), I caught sight of a recipe that had been hanging on my fridge all winter: Jim Lahey's No-Knead Bread. I had had the brilliant idea of serving up fresh bread over the holidays, but my enthusiasm dwindled quickly when I discovered I'd need a heavy cast-iron pot. I didn't have one.

Then, in February, my no-nonsense cousin Louisa caught wind of my troubles. Two days later I had a pot. A big, beautiful, candy apple red Le Creuset look-alike. I was thrilled. I couldn't stop taking pictures of it. But still, no bread. I guess I just didn't have that other calling.

Until last night.

I know a lot's been said about the recipe since its debut in 2006, and even in the past few weeks there seems to have been a renewed interest in Lahey and his home-baked delights. (Here, and sort of here and here.) While the recollection of Pim's "No flavor!" warning filled my heart with icy fear when I scanned the recipe last night, I felt I had to follow through should the calling fall silent once again. It was time to grow up, I thought, flavor be damned!*

The dough came together very easily before bed and 20 hours later, I arrived home smug and big person-y, ready to forge ahead. I took a peek into my plastic-covered bowl and inside was just a lump. A very lumpy lump covered in bubbles, looking like it had contracted some kind of horrible, open-sored skin disease.
First, I panicked. Then came the profanity. I couldn't help it. I felt so betrayed. I mean, look at it! Finally, I looked at the recipe. The bubbles and lumpiness were normal, desirable even. I calmed down and, red in the face from embarrassment, apologized to my lump, who by this point I was calling Bear. Suddenly, I didn't feel like a grown-up anymore.

When Bear came out of the oven, he was beautiful. Brown and golden all at once, a hard crust hiding a dense, chewy center that, lo and behold, had flavor in leaps and bounds. (I used whole wheat flour instead of the all-purpose listed in the original recipe.)
As I sliced Bear up, I couldn't help but think that being a big person is overrated. After all, it's hard to win at hide and seek in the backyard if you're too tall. And there is nothing, nothing good about under-eye circles. And I know how to identify saffron now.

And and and I have no desire whatsoever to say goodbye to birthday parties, gifts or cake (ahem, July 1), and no amount of growing up, or bread-baking, is going to take that away from me.

*Flavor should never ever actually be damned.

***
Whole Wheat No-Knead Bread
Adapted from New York Times, adapted from Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery
3 cups whole wheat flour (original recipe calls for all-purpose or bread flour)
¼ teaspoon instant yeast
1¼ teaspoons salt
Extra flour, cornmeal or wheat bran as needed

In a large bowl combine flour, yeast and salt. Add 1 5/8 cups water, and stir until blended; dough will be shaggy and sticky. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let dough rest at least 12 hours, preferably about 18, at warm room temperature, about 70 degrees.

Dough is ready when its surface is dotted with bubbles. Lightly flour a work surface and place dough on it; sprinkle it with a little more flour and fold it over on itself once or twice. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rest about 15 minutes.

Using just enough flour to keep dough from sticking to work surface or to your fingers, gently and quickly shape dough into a ball. Generously coat a cotton towel (not terry cloth) with flour, wheat bran or cornmeal; put dough seam side down on towel and dust with more flour, bran or cornmeal. Cover with another cotton towel and let rise for about 2 hours. When it is ready, dough will be more than double in size and will not readily spring back when poked with a finger.

At least a half-hour before dough is ready, heat oven to 450 degrees. Put a 6- to 8-quart heavy covered pot (cast iron, enamel, Pyrex or ceramic) in oven as it heats. When dough is ready, carefully remove pot from oven. Slide your hand under towel and turn dough over into pot, seam side up; it may look like a mess, but that is O.K. Shake pan once or twice if dough is unevenly distributed; it will straighten out as it bakes. Cover with lid and bake 30 minutes, then remove lid and bake another 15 to 30 minutes, until loaf is beautifully browned.
Cool on a rack.

Yield: One 1½-pound loaf.

April 20, 2008

I'll crumble 4 ya

I stink at writing headlines. At work I rely on the obvious ("Council approves budget") and not so obvious ("MICU comes home") for pathetic, usually last minute, inspiration. It is with the hope that you'll keep this in mind that I apologize for the title of this post, which is, all things considered, quite creative, don't you think? Bah, fine. George Michael, forgive me.

Another thing I just can't get a handle on is seasonal ingredients. Today I was supposed to make a crumble, a recreation of the rhubarb and apple version my mom swooned over at Chez Panisse a couple of weeks ago, the one I promised her I'd remake. I was sure I'd seen rhubarb stalks at the supermarket, which may be the root of the problem.

As a lifelong supermarket, rather that farmer's market, goer, I'm used to having access to pretty much whatever, whenever. I know the basics - pumpkin in fall, peas in spring, strawberries in summer, or something like that - but for the most part I buy what I find with little thought to what season it was when the item was snatched from it's home.


I was perfectly confident that rhubarb would be no problem to find. I'd seen it, for one, and Chez Panisse only serves food in season, for another. Sadly, this was no guarantee. Nary a rhubarb to be found at the Emerson Shop Rite or even Westwood's Trader Joes. Not even in the frozen section! What are supermarkets coming to these days?

But I had crumble on the brain and a lack of rhubarb wasn't about to derail me. The best part of crumbles is that they work with any fruits. Pineapple and mango? An option but the cool, cloudy New Jersey day didn't really warrant a tropical crumble. Strawberries? There were plenty at the store but it just seemed too easy. I finally settled on a combination of frozen cherries, blueberries, raspberries and blackberries, really just because they looked pretty in the picture on the bag. They were even lovelier in the pan, like melty rubies and amethyst bubbling around a crust of gold.

I hadn't tasted anything so delightful in ages: Sweet fruits. Tart lime. Nutty whole wheat topping. The only thing keeping me from polishing off the remaining half tonight is the oh so happy thought that I can devour it for breakfast tomorrow morning.

Oh crumble, I'll tumble 4 ya. (I couldn't resist.)

***

Berry-cherry crumble

Filling
1.5 lbs frozen mixed berries and cherries (available at Trader Joe's)
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
Juice of 1/2 lime

Crumble
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
3 tablespoons brown sugar
Butter, cold and diced, as needed (about 3-4 tablespoons)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. In a saucepan, combine fruit, 2 tablespoons sugar and lime juice. Stir occasionally until heated, about five minutes.

In a separate bowl, combine flour, baking powder and sugars. Add butter as needed, working into dry ingredients with your hands until the mixtures is crumbly.

Pour fruit mixture into baking dish and cover with crumb topping. Bake about 35 minutes, until fruit is bubbly and crumb is crisp and golden.

Let cool about five minutes, or serve at room temperature, preferably with ice cream.

April 18, 2008

A whirlwind of the very best kind

The week before last was a whirlwind, a whirlwind of the very best kind. In a matter of six days, I soaked in the warm sunshine of northern California and endured one of Chicago's brutal spring storms. I indulged with an exotic cocktail of gin (always a good start) with honey and lavendar, and countless (just two actually) glasses of warming red wine. I ate rich squab and juicy steak, fresh produce and duck fat french fries and too much chocolate.

But it was only over a glass of wine at Chez Panisse two Sundays ago that it hit me - I'm having dinner at Chez Panisse! Meep!

Then something else hit me, something arguably more important depending on who you ask - I'm going back to school. Smile, sip, sigh.

I never gave much thought to going back to school, least of all journalism school. I figured I'd get my reporting chops up to snuff on the job, working my beat, impressing my bosses. Before long I'd work my way up and out, becoming the most sought after print-slash-video-slash-web reporter-slash-producer in the county. Nay! On the planet!

Needless to say, two and a half years after taking a job at a community paper, I've realized that will never be the case, no matter how many board of ed meetings I cover or freelance film reviews I fumble my way through. So, here I go. This September will be all about new beginnings. I will be back at school in a city I've never lived in with people I've never known. The question is, which school? Which city? Which people? Or, better yet, which farmer's market?























































I know I should base my decisions on the program and job opportunities and financial aid - donations are now being accepted - and all sorts of other reasonable, pragmatic criteria. But pragmatic I am not, least of all when it comes to life's important decisions. Go to film school instead of studying international business? Sure! Spend my final undergrad semester traipsing around Paris instead of looking for post-graduation work? Go for it! That pesky voice is chirping in my ear once again and I can't help but find myself considering where I'd live, what I'd wear, where I'd shop, what I'd eat as important factors in my decision. Quite the dilemma. I know. I know.

I guess I'll have to sleep on it. Or maybe eat on it. I've often been told that I bake to forget my problems, but I like to think of it as a way of working through them. Really, nothing gets solved without the input of a good pie or cupcake. And my mom has been asking, begging really, for seconds of the rhubarb-apple crumble from Chez Panisse. This decision could prove to be a real piece of cake.