My dad's favorite things - Part 1

I love my dad. He loves me, too, but I figured Father's Day was the perfect chance to clinch his paternal adoration. And to make up for recent bouts of early morning exercise-induced grumpiness. And help him forget that I'm leaving home for California of all places (is this every father's nightmare?) in a month.

My dad isn't really one for ties, and I've run out of identifiable tools and technological knick-knacks to bestow upon him. He is, however, one for food, intense food that some shy away from for silly reasons like "health" and "hurts my tongue" and "oh, my stomach," food like red meat and chiles and beans and dark chocolate and butter. Did I mention I love my dad?

Now, as tempted as I am to start with dessert, I won't. My mom didn't let me and my dad start with dessert on Sunday, and I feel like I'd be breaking a sacred rule of dinnertime propriety if I start with dessert.

Instead, I'll start with the main course. Did I mention my dad isn't really an appetizer kind of guy? When it's time to eat, it's time to eat - with no need for snacks to take up valuable belly room that could be used for main event.

And so, without further ado, I present to you the meat.

***

This dish was originally supposed to be the Southwestern Barbecued Brisket with Ancho Chile Sauce featured in the latest issue of Bon Appetit. But, unable find a large enough piece of meat, ancho chile powder or ancho chiles - and discovering that there was no gas left in the tank of my gas grill - I had to abandon "supposed to be" in exchange for "kind of like but not really." Still, generic chile powder and a trusty oven did the trick, turning my "too small" slab of meat into a moist, succulent, flavorful, melt-under-your-fork brisket.

Chile-rubbed brisket

Adapted from Bon Appetit, July 2008

2 teaspoons coarse kosher salt
1/2 tablespoon brown sugar
1 teaspoon chile powder
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
1 2 1/2-pound flat-cut (also called first-cut) brisket
2 large (roaster) disposable aluminum pans

Mix salt, sugar, chile powder, cumin and black pepper together in small bowl.

Rub spice blend over brisket. Wrap brisket in plastic; refrigerate at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours.

Heat oven to 250°F Unwrap brisket and arrange fat side up in an aluminum pan. Cook brisket uncovered at 250°F for about 1 hour and 15 minues. Baste brisket occasionally with pan juices.

Remove pan from oven, and discard the pan and juices. Wrap brisket tightly in two wide sheets of heavy-duty foil. Place in clean aluminum pan and return to oven at 250°F for an additional 45 minutes.

Transfer brisket in pan to rimmed baking sheet and let rest about one hour.

Carefully unwrap brisket, saving any juices in foil. Transfer juices to small pitcher or bowl and thinly slice brisket across the grain on a work surface. Transfer to a platter and serve with juices.